1/10/2023 0 Comments Hyper denim![]() ![]() ![]() Ludovic de Saint Sernin stood out among emerging talent with his latest gender-fluid collection, and Kevin Germanier also caught buyers’ attention despite Ye, the rapper formerly known as Kanye West, staging a surprise show in the same time slot that hogged headlines with negative buzz. Other standouts were Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent collection, with its column dresses and oversize coats, while Chitose Abe’s Sacai was well-received for its pleating detail and bombers. His supersized sweatshirts, shrunken bombers and balloon shoes were cited as must-haves.ĭries Van Noten also registered for its use of sculptural volume, colorblocking and unexpected floral mixes. “They are always the perfect blend of conceptual meets commerce,” said Libby Page, market director at Net-a-porter. Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collection was singled out for his creative use of a floral theme and playful twist on proportion - all while still being wearable. The pendulum swung from heavy leather to sheer fabrics, with many looks revealing acres of skin. If that’s an invitation, we’ll be RSVP’ing yes, thank you very much.An all-black palette for summer stood out, with pops of brights and neon as colors still on trend, while embellishment for day, including the resurgence of sequins, added an air of celebratory fun. “By decontextualizing clothing and removing some of the signifiers that we felt the garment already had, we allow new identities and new styles to enter it,” said Barron. The way the clothes were assembled took the work beyond surfaces, putting the emphasis on transformation. There was a lot of tactility and ingenuity in this collection: Look at how vintage denim was transformed by an overlay of black lace how the sleeves of a dress turned upside-down created the effect of a handkerchief hem how a towel assumed a Grecian drape. And upcycling requires solution-based design. The idea of working with existing materials (mostly, since the shoes will go into production), is to acknowledge a responsibility to the environment and the future. Still, models slogging through the mud did more than paint a picture, they evoked an exodus and raised questions about consumerism and what we value.įor all of its sparkle and let-them-eat-cake deliciousness, All-In manages to get beyond surfaces. Earlier this week, Demna announced that as “fashion is a visual art” he felt no need to verbalize his work. ![]() It will be many years before we understand the implications of the decontextualization of images enabled by social media, but like fashion, these new means of communication place an emphasis on surfaces. (Among the “chaperones” at this event was the Swedish Fashion Council who have been helping the designers structure the brand as part of their talent incubator program.) Maryam Nassir Zadeh was an early supporter Lotta Volkova modeled in last season’s couture-inspired collection and Inti Wang, Leon Dame, Issa Lish, and Ceval were some of the faces who joined the coming out party for spring today. and Norway, respectively, and based in Paris, are the designers behind this upcycling label that’s something of an insider’s secret. Then there was All-In’s Debutante collection, presented at the Collège-lycée Jacques-Decour in Montmartre that was a reasonable stand-in for a smells-like-teen-spirit gym in Anytown, America.īenjamin Barron and Bror August, from the U.S. ![]() Meryll Rogge, from Belgium, leaned into the jock (as depicted by Hollywood) prom looks were played with at Thom Browne. There was a preppy/boyish thread that ran through the spring 2023 men’s shows that was enlivened by skateboards at JW Anderson and ERL. Concurrent with the “Teenage Dirtbag” meme on social channels are high school reveries on the catwalk that go beyond candy-colored Mean Girls suits. ![]()
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